The left side of the relay should be a large copper stud (5/16" orģ/8" threads) and that's supposed to go to the truck starting battery The only other possibility is they got a batch of oddball relays for cheap and didn't use the industry standard Single Pole - Normally Open relay.Ĭharge Isolation Relay Functional Description: It would also explain the starting battery going dead, because of the current drain from the ignitor module staying on. This would effectively hot-wire the ignition circuit so the truck ignition doesn't shut off - but even with a spark the engine will still stop when the EFI cuts off the fuel supply, so you wouldn't notice it. The wire from the alternator output stud is NOT supposed to be on the same relay stud as the coil power wire going to the ignition of the truck. If there is no wire on the big stud on the left (as you describe it) I bet that's your problem - someone didn't understand what was going on, and mis-wired the relay. And 'high current' meaning the power contacts are usually rated at 100A+ continuous.) More like fifteen minutes would be my guess, and it would get hot and stink before that. Use a standard "Ford Starter Solenoid" that looks just like it and it will overheat and burn out, almost certainly in under an hour. (* - 'Continuous duty' is an important detail if you ever have to replace it. The silver cylinder is a continuous duty ( *) high current (*) relay (also called a solenoid or contactor) that charges the coach deep-cycle battery when the engine is running, and isolates the coach battery power from the starting battery power with the engine off.
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